The art of twinkling bubble, ‘Sparkling wine’ 기포의 예술, 스파클링 와인
Photos by Chun Eun Sue

Le Marche de Noel in Mulhouse

Le Marche de Noel in Mulhouse
Actually, the season of end-year and a new year is middle of winter with the freezing weather in Korea. Even if it’s too cold outside, don’t you expect to see your loved ones to spend times of this season? The perfect wine for this atmosphere is Champagne. Obviously it’s a wine to enjoy all together always.

Le Marche de Noel in Mulhouse

Le Marche de Noel in Mulhouse
Meanwhile, it is pity that many people have a misunderstanding about Champagne. In many case, people call a sparkling wine as Champagne, which is not exactly. The reason of this misunderstanding comes from an origin.
It cannot be marked as Champagne if an origin of wine is not from Champagne, even though grapes and making method is all same. In other words, Champagne is from the region of only Champagne in France with a traditional making method. And it’s one of sparkling wine.

A lovely bubble sparkling wine
We can find the great pleasures of well-made Champagne beyond making comparison with any of wine. Most of wine lovers are saying that finally the last glass will be Champagne after enjoying many others. One of main element of the great performance is bubbles in Champagne. The fine one is tiny bubbles lingered in the glass, so called ‘seed pearls’.

Taittinger bottle art series

Taittinger bottle art series
Bubbles are getting from the 2nd fermentation. The blended wine after 1st fermentation is bottled with a mixture sugar, wine and yeast. This initiates a secondary fermentation which happens inside the bottle takes 12 months at least under suitable environment, in a subterranean cave.
The 2nd fermentation with yeast converts the sugar into alcohol and produces the gas carbon dioxide, which is responsible for the fizz. To remove the sediments of yeast after a secondary fermentation done, the bottle is gradually rotated, very slowly by hand everyday for 6 weeks.

Taittinger bottle art series

Taittinger, Comtes Blanc de Blancs
So that, the sediment slides down to the neck, a procedure known as remuage. The expert spins 6,000 to 8,000 bottles per hour. The next procedure is dégorgement, a neck containing the lees is frozen, the bottle stood upright and the crown cap removed.
The frozen sediment is then expelled under pressure, after that replenishes the small amount of reserve wine and sugar which is lost during dégorgement. We call it dosage. The amount of refill completes style of Champagne, for example, Brut, Demi-Sec, Doux etc. The popular style is Brut which is dry flavor.

Remuage process of Taittinger

One of the best Champagne, Taittinger
All of procedures are so amazing, either the method or taking a long time. Also, it’s essential to have an environment with proper temperature, humidity and so on, so it’s done in a subterranean cave. Taittinger, a Champagne producer gladly showed their basement cave where approx. 3 million bottles of Champagne are reserved in total length 4km. Build in the Roman Era, pyramidwise, it’s the perfect cave for Champagne.
The taste of Tainttinger Champagne was like art. Very smooth but fresh bubble, aromatic, find gradations of texture and great depth, naturally understandable to become a big fan of Champagne.

Fermentation process of Sieur d’Arques

Bottling process of Sieur d’Arques
Leaving Champagne, I couldn’t help but wonder, what if it’s not from this region even comparably excellent quality there though? Isn’t it unfair? This producer in a faraway region, Limoux could be. Sieur d’Arques is also one of the best sparkling wine producer in Limoux. Only difference is grape variety, the method is same as Champagne, called a traditional method. The origin name is Crémant de Limoux, not Champagne.

Bottling process of Sieur d’Arques

Cave of Sieur d’Arques
Historically Limoux founded and used this traditional method earlier than Champagne, so it’s called ‘The First Sparkling Wine Region in The World’. Crémant of Sieur d’Arques always receives favorable reviews and high praise, no less than Champagne. Another remarkable achievement is to automate most of process including 2nd fermentation in a bottle. As a result, they could produce various best value crémant which more people can enjoy at less expensive price.

Degorgement process of Sieur d’Arques

Labeling process of Sieur d’Arques
Occasionally crémant is only as an afterthought, its attractions are more understated. However, if you can find one of crémant, try them. You may like them a lot. The crémant of Sieur d’Arques surprised me for its charms, a beautiful texture, richness and excellent acidity along with aromas of citrus, flowers. It was so happy to have this wine.

Remuage peocess of Sieur d’Arques
Champagne, Crémant and all sparkling wines are the artwork of twinkling bubbles. A table with wine glass is not too much fancy always. We can make it with a reasonable budget. In fact, the most beautiful table is being together with my loved ones. To find a bottle of wine to drink with them is a joyful moment. So I am saying that sparkling is a perfect wine for this bliss to enjoy all together.

Sieur d’Arques, Cremant de Limoux
Contributor, Chun Eun Sue
Wine expert, Chun Eun Sue had worked in Korea best wine magazine as a senior marketing & international manager. Now she is working in the leading wine company in Korea. CultureM Magazine releases her wine & travel essay once a month.
와인 전문가 전은수씨는 국내 최고의 와인매거진에서 국, 내외 와인 마케팅을 담당했으며 현재 국내 와인회사에서 마케팅 및 홍보를 담당하고 있다. 해외 유명 와인산지를 직접 답사한 그녀의 생생한 이야기를 컬쳐엠매거진에서 공개한다.
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